Camino Iḿ glad you ended up with the 'vette careful getting her home. This sound so fun, hope you can manage to not break the bank. We're having a Cars & Parts swap meet in Springfield this weekend if you have any come your way it's a good days event.

Completed the barter work, now I just have to figure out how to get it home.

I miss my truck and trailer!"

I am available for hire: DuraMax, 6-ton hitch, car trailer!

I am available for hire: DuraMax, 6-ton hitch, car trailer!

Fantastic!

Camino Iḿ glad you ended up with the 'vette careful getting her home. This sound so fun, hope you can manage to not break the bank. We're having a Cars & Parts swap meet in Springfield this weekend if you have any come your way it's a good days event.

Thanks!

There's a bunch of other stuff going on and I am now broke, so I guess I'll have to skip the swap meet. And that's a bummer as I want to hunt some stuff down right away!

I am available for hire: DuraMax, 6-ton hitch, car trailer!

That would be fantastic!

But I only need to move it across town (about 2-3 miles), and that would be a long haul for you for such a short move.

I'm going to try to borrow a truck and trailer.

No problemo! 2-3 miles should be a cakewalk- musta missed that factoid earlier in the thread.

Ended up getting a good deal on a rollback ride for the Vette - much easier that way.

It is safely in my mother's driveway, but I have to go back for the parts.

Took some pics that I'll post later.

3 out of 4 tires pumped right up, I used the spare from the Camino to replace the one that didn't. It is just about the flattest tire in history (maybe I'll get a pic of it).

So old Rip Van Vette has made it to the first pit stop.

Glad there weren't any mishaps

The transport was very smooth - took all of 20 minutes.

Pics:

Not a 'vette guy, but still :

Random ~

> I like the way the headlamps are peeking out witohut the grilles/bumper.

> I assume the 'factory way' for the hood hold-up is a prop rod?

> What's missing from the rockers area- stainless trim?

Yeah...it's a project....

Not a 'vette guy, but still :

Random ~

> I like the way the headlamps are peeking out witohut the grilles/bumper.

> I assume the 'factory way' for the hood hold-up is a prop rod?

> What's missing from the rockers area- stainless trim?

I kinda like that about the headlights too - something sinister about it.

There is a bracket for the hood that is not attached, but I haven't scienced out how it works yet. I don't think a standard prop rod is part of it.

Yup, wide, fluted rocker trim would make the frame invisible once re-installed.

Yeah...it's a project....

No question about that.

Once I pick up and go through all of the parts that come with it, I'll have a better idea about the scope of the project.

Nice, oh yes sir... BUT... where's the Dodge?

Not to worry Ocn, the Dodge is still tucked-away in its lair.

The Vette is only making a pit stop there so I can clean it and attempt to make it run. After that it comes here for more extensive work.

I now know that the car was built on 11/24/71 in Elkhart green with a saddle interior, but I still don't know if it came with a white or black convertible top.

That bit of info isn't on the trim tag.

Build sheets in 'vettes are commonly atop the gas tank, IIRC.

Build sheets in 'vettes are commonly atop the gas tank, IIRC.

Yes, but I don't have high hopes of finding anything left of the build sheet.

Poked around the car for a few minutes this evening - it's looking better than I thought in some areas.

I removed all of the random parts and pieces that were just sitting inside it, and started to remove the metric ton of leaves from under the hood.

One thing I'm sure of: hardware will be an issue. Lots of hopeless screws, nuts, and bolts were sitting on the floor.

Tried to feel around the tank for a build sheet - no luck. I'll have to drop the tank.

To any Admin that wanders in here: Please move this thread to the Project Car Forum - it might start to get a bit boring/irritating in the middle of Lounge banter as I post updates more often.

Right now, I am considering titling the Vette as an antique - that way I can leave the 1980-81 PA inspection sticker on the windshield.

Thoughts?

And oh, by the way, I got the original note back!

Edited November 14, 201014 yr by Camino LS6

To any Admin that wanders in here: Please move this thread to the Project Car Forum - it might start to get a bit boring/irritating in the middle of Lounge banter as I post updates more often.

Right now, I am considering titling the Vette as an antique - that way I can leave the 1980-81 PA inspection sticker on the windshield.

Thoughts?

And oh, by the way, I got the original note back!

IMHO, no question, you want to title it as a antique. Is there any drawbacks besides limited yearly mileage?

I have heard numerous stories of vette build sheets, on much older models, surviving in legible form. Surprises me: paper, on the outside of the vehicle? Might be there & legible....

IMHO, no question, you want to title it as a antique. Is there any drawbacks besides limited yearly mileage?

I'll have to see if things have changed, but an antique tag used to restrict you to daylight hours among other things.

Edited November 14, 201014 yr by Camino LS6

I have heard numerous stories of vette build sheets, on much older models, surviving in legible form. Surprises me: paper, on the outside of the vehicle? Might be there & legible....

Well, "legible" is often a stretch, but many have survived. I'll need to drop the tank anyway - so we will find out.

I think in Ohio antique means that you can only use the vehicle for club activities, parades, car shows, and exhibition, and not as regular transportation.

Go for it in terms of registering it as an antique....

Today I'm planning to collect the rest of the parts and shop-vac the debris out of the car. I did discover that the panel that covers the convertible top was once red - so I have to ask the previous owner about that. Maybe it came from the same car that donated the red seat.

Inside the car I found the grille panel for the cowl, the rear valence panel, the actuator and armature for the wiper cover, a wheel center, a power window motor/actuator and some other bits.

I think in Ohio antique means that you can only use the vehicle for club activities, parades, car shows, and exhibition, and not as regular transportation.

Go for it in terms of registering it as an antique....

I think a similar restriction exists here as well.

I mostly want to leave the old inspection sticker as evidence of the car's long sleep.

Speaking of which, I need to find a way to read the faded info on the back of the sticker.

Any ideas on how to do that?

Contact a librarian who preserves old manuscripts...my sister in law does that at a library, and they have all kins of useful techniques.

Thanks Stang, that's a great idea!

My Tahoe is stuffed to the headliner with original and NOS Corvette parts.

I am a happy man.

Cool man! It's nice when you can be your own Santa. Original and NOS, I like the sound of that. Nothing fits and wears like genuine GM.

It's an amazing array of parts.

Here are just a couple of highlights

NOS GM carb rebuild kit

NOS GM front and rear bumpers

NOS GM door panels (slightly rough from storage)

NOS GM Rally wheel centers and trim rings

NOS GM door handles

NOS GM Exhaust tips

Lots more.

This reminds me of buying an old partially built model kit off ebay, some parts loose, some parts missing...but this in 1:1 scale w/ a lot more parts!

It is alot like that, Cubitar.

I forgot to report - I now know that the top is white. The frame still has the remains of the original on it.

The parts are now safely stashed in the barn. Now I have to do some serious thinking about how I want to do this car.

I still plan to begin with a thorough cleaning and an attempt to get it running. It is what comes after that which has me thinking.

I'm even toying with the idea of selling-off the NOS stuff and using aftermarket pieces to do the car. Heresy, I know.

The thing is, it is a base convertible automatic car, and as such has a limited ceiling of value. If I use all of the NOS stuff, then I ought to try to keep the car all NOS. That would cost more than I can reasonably do. If I mix the NOS stuff with aftermarket parts, what do I gain? Part of me thinks those rare NOS pieces should go to an LS5 or LT1 NCRS project somewhere.

I'm just thinking it over.

I guess it all comes down to what your goals are for the car...I'm assuming your aren't planning a concours-style restoration of a Bloomington Gold competing trailer queen.

Do you want a reliable, mostly period-correct driver? A mildly modded street machine (in period or modern style)? A race car? A modern G-machine (Pro Touring) style car w/ a late model engine, big wheels and tires, etc?

What time frame are you looking to sell it (i.e. build for a quick sale or build to enjoy and maybe sell down the road)? Lots of possible directions to think about...

That's just it, I'm not yet sure.

>>"I'm even toying with the idea of selling-off the NOS stuff and using aftermarket pieces to do the car."<<

Based on what you said earlier WRT the 'longevity love factor' for you & this vette, ^ this makes strong sense, IMO.

Edited November 17, 201014 yr by balthazar

Completed the barter work, now I just have to figure out how to get it home.

Awesome ... congratulations, Camino!!!!

Cort | 37.m.IL.pigValve.pacemaker | 5 Monte Carlos + 1 Caprice Classic |* Chicagoland Meets, 2011?

MCs.CC + CHD.models.HO.legos.RadioShows + RoadTrips.us66 = http://www.chevyasylum.com/cort

"Someone lights the way with just a single ray of hope" ... Alabama ... 'Angels Among Us'

>>"I'm even toying with the idea of selling-off the NOS stuff and using aftermarket pieces to do the car."<<

Based on what you said earlier WRT the 'longevity love factor' for you & this vette, ^ this makes strong sense, IMO.

Thanks for the input, I'm going to collect opinions and think it over for a while. Most of the NOS stuff is detail-related (trim etc.) So I have plenty of time to decide.

Thanks for the congrats, Cort.

I think just make it a basic driver...

A real primo grade resto would cost a fortune on this car.....

I think just make it a basic driver...

A real primo grade resto would cost a fortune on this car.....

This is kind of what I would lean too, as well. However, before destroying the history left with a quick resto, I would document, document, document, as those details, once gone, are gone forever. These details would be very important if years from now, you decide to do a more detailed restoration.

I would then do the research on proper finishes and get it apart and treated/painted to stop the corrosion. Of course, even if you are doing a driver resto, you can still paint parts the proper color instead of painting everything black.

I've used this to stop rust it last me about 5 yrs on an old rusty 76 Malibu that I didn't even paint over or even cut out the rusty wheel wells. Ocn may have a better product to steer you to. This is great fun

Loctite Extend

I think we are all on the same page, or at least heading toward it.

I'm thinking that I'll borrow from the medical profession by adopting "First, do no harm" as a guiding principle.

Much will depend on the condition of the engine. I have to pick a penetrating oil to soak the cylinders with prior to attempting to turn the crank. Might get to that this Sunday.

I think we are all on the same page, or at least heading toward it.

I'm thinking that I'll borrow from the medical profession by adopting "First, do no harm" as a guiding principle.

Much will depend on the condition of the engine. I have to pick a penetrating oil to soak the cylinders with prior to attempting to turn the crank. Might get to that this Sunday.

Since it's matching numbers, and since a new block would be expensive...why not tear it down, re-ring and re-gasket the motor, and then put it back together? You could do a visual inspection, and you'll need to do that anyways.

You can always balance and machine everything later.

how much is a small block Chevy gasket set, a set of rings, and a set of bearings for a 350 anyways?

Since it's matching numbers, and since a new block would be expensive...why not tear it down, re-ring and re-gasket the motor, and then put it back together? You could do a visual inspection, and you'll need to do that anyways.

Well, if the engine isn't freely turning, I'd be tempted to set it aside, preserved, and stab a crate engine in. Sure, its cheap to re-ring and re-gasket... but why wear the original block out? Plus, you can never know when disaster is going to strike... One bad rod bolt or spun bearing and the block is gone. If the engine is asleep somewhere, you can always have it redone and swapped back in if you decide to sell the car numbers matching.

Just to clarify, I don't know if the engine is free turning or not. It was parked as a running vehicle.

I don't want to try to turn the engine until I have let it soak in oil first. If it is frozen, then I will likely pull it and set it aside.

Well, if the engine isn't freely turning, I'd be tempted to set it aside, preserved, and stab a crate engine in. Sure, its cheap to re-ring and re-gasket... but why wear the original block out? Plus, you can never know when disaster is going to strike... One bad rod bolt or spun bearing and the block is gone. If the engine is asleep somewhere, you can always have it redone and swapped back in if you decide to sell the car numbers matching.

This makes real economic sense, the targetmaster motors were something like $1300 or so when I bought one from jegs once....and they come with a warranty...if the suspension was tight...a good set of used tires, a tranny fluid flush and adjustment, and some basic assembly and she could be on the road very easily in the spring....

Or by christmas if I was there to help you thrash on it....!

I think you'll need WD40, it looks rusty, much like yourself ...

Well, look who showed up!

The hairy proto-european prodigal son!

Got news for me yet?

Stang: I wish I had a wrenching assistant! Not only would the job go faster, it would be more fun.