Well, look who showed up!

The hairy proto-european prodigal son!

Got news for me yet?

Stang: I wish I had a wrenching assistant! Not only would the job go faster, it would be more fun.

Looks like you couldn't afford good news now, but good news is coming via Chevrolet ...

Where there's a will...

There's a 2013 Chevy El Camino based on a Holden...that gets retro-fitted into a Pontiac ST..

Wouldn't that sort of make you the anti-Camino rather than Camino?

If we finally get the Ute here, I doubt I'd give it the "anti-Camino" treatment.

Right now, I'm off to go play with the Vette.

I'm jealous!

Don't worry, I'll post updates.

Since it is a nice day I went and cruised around with the top down for about four hours, blasting some of my son's music on the car stereo.

I feel much better right now...

Lady GaGa and a top-down Miata on a Sunday afternoon, what could be more fun?

Type O negative and Nirvana in the same car, perhaps?

So it begins.

The Vette got its first scrub-down in three decades today. It's amazing how much more viable this project looks now that it's clean. I took a bunch of shots before and after the cleaning, and then a few more of the car in its temporary home.

We had to push it through a standard double doorway and the clearance was less than 2" per side - quite nerve-wracking. The car made it safely inside without incident ( other than my now sore back), and I began investigating.

For the first time, I have removed the air cleaner and was pleased to find a carb that has fully functioning linkage and butterflies. Not corroded in any way, the carb is looking very serviceable. I then pulled the dipstick, it showed no signs of moisture or rust - just old oil. At that point I pulled the oil filler cap (which needs a new one because the rubber is so hard), and took a look inside the valve cover. It looks beautiful in there! Very clean and no sign of sludge, moisture, or rust so I am very pleased and optimistic about this engine's viability. My last investigation was the fuel tank. I had ugly visions of rust and rot having reclaimed it, but what I found was just the opposite. Shiny metal walls visible through the filler hole and a fair amount of very old and stinky gasoline.

I had a good first day of the project without doubt.

Pics to follow shortly.

Before the bath:

Glad you've had good luck so far.

And after pulling out/blowing out the leaves, vacuuming up the debris, and a good scrubbing:

Fascinating...I may have missed this earlier in the thread, but did the previous owner start a restoration and stop? I.e. why was the interior torn apart? Do you have any of the interior parts like the dash?

The doorway we pushed it through, and a few pics of it sitting in its temporary lair:

Fascinating...I may have missed this earlier in the thread, but did the previous owner start a restoration and stop? I.e. why was the interior torn apart? Do you have any of the interior parts like the dash?

Yes, he bought the car from someone who had changed the color and put a newer style interior in the car. So he disassembled the car and had it repainted in the original color. But he never put it back together.

I have some of the interior parts including NOS door panels and the dash, but I will be hunting for much of the rest.

Edited November 22, 201015 yr by Camino LS6

The concensus appears to be that Marvel Mystery Oil is the product of choice for waking an old engine. So, I'm headed out to get some.

Today was Marvel Mystery oil day. I pulled the spark plugs and shot some of the stuff into all of the cylinders. I then pulled the valve covers to get a good look inside. Not too bad in there, if a bit less clean than my earlier peek through the oil fill indicated. The layer of crud from old oil isn't very thick, and all of the pushrods spun easily. There was a bit of the telltale grey crud from an engine using leaded gas in the corners of the heads below the drainback holes, but no major sludge. I dosed the valvetrain up with Mystery Oil as well, shooting generous amounts down into the lifter valley and through the drainback holes. I soaked every bit of the exposed valvetrain.

On cleaning day I noticed that the heat riser was frozen in place (no real surprise) , so today I soaked it with GM's own "heat valve lubricant". That stuff is the best penetrating oil I've ever used. I stocked-up with two new cans today as I'm told that it has been discontinued. If you can find this stuff, I'd urge you to buy a can.

That was about it for today, other than checking to see if there was any ATF in the trans (there was). Now I will just let things soak for a day or two. I also discovered that #3 spark plug is a PITA to get to.

Not much to see, but I did take a few pics.

Edited November 23, 201015 yr by Camino LS6

Today was Marvel Mystery oil day. I pulled the spark plugs and shot some of the stuff into all of the cylinders. I then pulled the valve covers to get a good look inside. Not too bad in there, if a bit less clean than my earlier peek through the oil fill indicated. The layer of crud from old oil isn't very thick, and all of the pushrods spun easily. There was a bit of the telltale grey crud from an engine using leaded gas in the corners of the heads below the drainback holes, but no major sludge. I dosed the valvetrain up with Mystery Oil as well, shooting generous amounts down into the lifter valley and through the drainback holes. I soaked every bit of the exposed valvetrain.

Found it on ebay. If you use this link, C&G gets a small kickback for it.

<a target="_blank" href="http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5574850503&toolid=10001&campid=5336741951&customid=&icep_item=170568234045&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg">GM Heat Valve Lubricant</a><img style="text-decoration:none;border:0;padding:0;margin:0;"src="http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=2&pub=5574850503&toolid=10001&campid=5336741951&customid=&item=170568234045&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]">

That looks like a QuadraJet Carb. If so, I have some resources to share with you that you will eventually need.

Nice find, Olds!

That's a great price.

Yes, it's a Quadrabog.

Luckily, I have an NOS rebuild kit in my stash of parts.

But all resource leads are more than welcome!

Tell us if you get her fired...

You can count on it, Stang.

I may try it over the holiday.

I just noticed something odd... what is that broken line that follows the passenger side of the hump and around the rear of were the passenger seat would be? I imagine that is a vacuum line... but for what?

I just noticed something odd... what is that broken line that follows the passenger side of the hump and around the rear of were the passenger seat would be? I imagine that is a vacuum line... but for what?

Good eye!

Yes, it is a vacuum line. It's part of the "Astro-Ventillation" system. It runs to a vacuum actuator that opens vents behind the seats to allow air to flow through the cabin. The air then vents out through the rear deck of the car just behind the convertible lid. You should be able to see two rectangular holes in the body in one of the pics. I have the grilles that install there set aside for now.

EDIT: You can even see the actuator, linkage, and the two doors it opens at the top of the rear wall of the passenger comapartment in one of the pics. The actuator is at the far left, the linkage runs from it above the first door to the center between the doors.

Edited November 24, 201015 yr by Camino LS6

How "original spec" are you worried about keeping this? A quick and relatively easy upgrade would be changing the distributor to a later HEI style..... since you're probably going to have to rip that whole thing apart anyway, might as well put something in that will allow for easier starting if you're not concerned about originality.

The resources for the Quadrajet I have are all reference material which I'll get you when I have a few less martinis in my system.

One thing about the QJ is the idle control solenoid.... just start hunting for it now. Just assume that is something that needs to be replaced like vacuum lines and hoses...... because even if it works today, it likely won't tomorrow.

BTW, you'll also probably need some of this.... it'll take those rust spots right off all the shiny bits of metal.

<iframe src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=0000FF&t=cheeandgear-20&o=1&p=8&l=as1&m=amazon&f=ifr&md=10FE9736YVPPT7A0FBG2&asins=B0014IGAWO" style="width:120px;height:240px;" scrolling="no" marginwidth="0" marginheight="0" frameborder="0"></iframe>

Are you sure it is not a 4 cylinder FWD appliance with 4 doors?

You did not make any progress by buying a 1971 RWD.

Feeling evil tonight, Zo6?

Olds: I'm not sure exactly how original I will insist on keeping it. The HEI is an obvious upgrade to be sure, and I hear you on the Q-jet.

But then, I'm no stranger to points and carbs - so it could go either way.

Good eye!

Nah... good photos.

Being that I know how most cars between 1960-2004 are put together, I just find the way the 'Vettes were built to be pretty interesting, as I've never had one up close and personal... and apart. ;-)

Actually, I find it interesting whats steel on the plastic fantastic. I expect the frame to be, but I didn't realize how much firewall and interior supports are steel. I guess I've been under the incorrect impression that as long as the fiberglass gelcoat is not degraded (leading to the fiberglass breaking down), any Vette was restorable... but I imagine that is not really the case, if the steel parts are too hard to replace.

Yes, it is a vacuum line. It's part of the "Astro-Ventillation" system. It runs to a vacuum actuator that opens vents behind the seats to allow air to flow through the cabin. The air then vents out through the rear deck of the car just behind the convertible lid. You should be able to see two rectangular holes in the body in one of the pics. I have the grilles that install there set aside for now.

EDIT: You can even see the actuator, linkage, and the two doors it opens at the top of the rear wall of the passenger comapartment in one of the pics. The actuator is at the far left, the linkage runs from it above the first door to the center between the doors.

Interesting...

...Oh, and I already have the Nevr Dull on hand.

Nah... good photos.

Being that I know how most cars between 1960-2004 are put together, I just find the way the 'Vettes were built to be pretty interesting, as I've never had one up close and personal... and apart. ;-)

Actually, I find it interesting whats steel on the plastic fantastic. I expect the frame to be, but I didn't realize how much firewall and interior supports are steel. I guess I've been under the incorrect impression that as long as the fiberglass gelcoat is not degraded (leading to the fiberglass breaking down), any Vette was restorable... but I imagine that is not really the case, if the steel parts are too hard to replace.

Interesting...

There are some very critical steel parts to a Vette. The frame (in this case it's a good one) and the birdcage (in this case it has some issues). The birdcage is the steel structure surrounding the passenger compartment. It consists of the winsheild frame, A pillars down to the floor (including door jambs), Rocker channels , rear door jambs, and the steel panel behind the seats. The upper rear reinforcements are then different for convertible and coupe models.

The trouble is usually around the windsheild and the front pillars/cowl area. My car has some damage in those areas - how bad is tough to determine without major disassembly.

Oh, and the actual firewall is fiberglass bonded to the birdcage.

EDIT: the sturcture of the doors is also steel under the fiberglass outer skin, and the body mounts are steel reinforced.

Edited November 24, 201015 yr by Camino LS6

I'm thinking that I may dramatically overfill the engine with oil today and give it one more day to sit and soak.

Picked up a new battery and an oil filter today. I force-fed the engine an extra 4 quarts of oil using a tube to flood the lifter valley and send the balance down the drainback holes.

Inching closer to a lift-off attempt.

Edited November 24, 201015 yr by Camino LS6

don't you want to hand rotate it 180 degrees and let the oil soak more first?

The plan is to drain the oil, add fresh oil/filter, prime with oil pump priming tool, hand rotate, and then attempt to start it.

Sort of like a Model T.

Hope it goes well, Camino!

Thanks Ocn!

Thanks for the congrats, Cort.

You are welcome! I'm thrilled for you that you bought this ... and I sure look forward to watching the progress.

Cort | 37.m.IL.pigValve.pacemaker | 5 Monte Carlos + 1 Caprice Classic |* Chicagoland Meets, 2011?

MCs.CC + CHD.models.HO.legos.RadioShows + RoadTrips.us66 = http://www.chevyasylum.com/cort

"Have a happy holiday" ... Brenda Lee ... 'Rockin' Around The Christmas Tree'

Minor update:

Yesterday I finally got back to this for a short time. I drained the old oil and replaced the filter, dug up some valve cover gaskets I had laying around, got the car up on jackstands, and attempted to drain the fuel tank.

Due to the position the tank is mounted in, and the small amount of remaining fuel, nothing more would drain. So I unbolted the straps holding the tank in and rotated it toward the back of the car. This didn't help me to drain it (I'm just going to pull the tank entirely), but it did allow me to recover the tank sticker/build sheet from the top of the tank.

The sticker is largely intact, but unfortunately it is illegible.

The initial attempt to start the engine may happen this week. My nephew will be taking video of the ensuing smoke screen.

Saw this in a photo thread elsewhere- thought we would like to see the frame/birdcage (minus windshield frame) of a (here: '69) Vette :

Edited January 11, 201115 yr by balthazar

Thanks for posting that!

I guess you can now see tha areas that I am concerned about pretty clearly.

What I don't care for is what would be Rust's petri dish: right there where the birdcage & frame come together. Does FG go in between there?

Otherwise, a rotted birdcage would take mad time to get at & repair.

What I don't care for is what would be Rust's petri dish: right there where the birdcage & frame come together. Does FG go in between there?

Otherwise, a rotted birdcage would take mad time to get at & repair.

No FG in between - it goes over the top of the birdcage. The big problems are around the winsheild frame and down the pillars/door jambs. Everything lower than the windsheild is covered/surrounded by FG (except on the interior). The entire front clip and firewall have to be removed to get at much of that area.

Interesting..how is the FG attached to the birdcage? Bolted? On a coupe, does the 'b-pillar' part of the birdcage loop over and connect together? (i.e. is there any metal under the 'targa bar' of a '68-82 behind the T-tops?)

Interesting..how is the FG attached to the birdcage? Bolted? On a coupe, does the 'b-pillar' part of the birdcage loop over and connect together? (i.e. is there any metal under the 'targa bar' of a '68-82 behind the T-tops?)

The FG is bonded to the birdcage. On coupes yes, there is a "targa bar" that loops overfrom side-to-side. The frames for the T-tops are part of the birdcage as well. On the pics of my car, you can also see the steel panel that runs across the back of the birdcage from side-to-side (it is absent in the pic Balthazar posted).

The tank is out and mostly drained - have to get the dregs out somehow.

May try to turn the engine by hand today.

Good luck!

The engine turned by hand so I kept on going.

I cleaned out the valve covers and replaced the valve cover gaskets. I then re-installed the valve covers and moved on to cleaning the battery terminals. With that done, I installed the battery and hit the key.

Nothing.

Traced the wires to the starter and found a melted mass that once was a couple of fusible links. So, I cut out the bad stuff and twisted the wires together and turned the key again.

Still nothing.

So I bypassed the nuetral safety switch on the shifter and WOOHOO!

The engine spins quite nicely now.

Now I just have to work out the fuel tank/lines, and free the stuck heat riser to attempt a "live fire exercise".

I have high hopes that this engine is pretty healthy and will fire right up.

Anyone know what the deal is with fusible links?

Do I really need to put them back in line to the starter?

Electrical stuff isn't my forte.