I'm wss just wondering what I should be looking for if my EGR is going...

The car lacks pickup, idles rough, and is getting SUV gas milage.....

It seems that I'm replacing a good piece of the fuel system...as I have already replaced the MAP sensor, and fuel pump, fuel filter....

Help...please....

93 Cav, 3.1, 135k....

* Engine stops after cold start.

* Engine stops at idle after deceleration.

* Vehicle surges during cruise.

* Rough idle.

Those are some symtoms of bad egr valve and it affects gas mileage as well. Some other things to consider have you replaced the wires and plugs yet if you haven't do that as well because worn out plugs will give you bad gas mileage as well as giving you back your pickup. If you did replace the plugs already what was the mileage and what plugs did you use.

Edited March 23, 200619 yr by reeferman

* Engine stops after cold start.

    * Engine stops at idle after deceleration.

    * Vehicle surges during cruise.

    * Rough idle.

Those are some symtoms of bad egr valve and it affects gas mileage as well.  Some other things to consider have you replaced the wires and plugs yet if you haven't do that as well because worn out plugs will give you bad gas mileage as well as giving you back your pickup.  If you did replace the plugs already what was the mileage and what plugs did you use.

It got plugs and wires about 8k miles or so...

As far as the 3rd one- can it want to slow down as well? (instead of speeding up)

I noticed as I do a bit of stop and go in traffic (speed up and slow down) with will throw the check engine light on, sometimes it will stay on, other times it won't.

A new map sensor improved everything for a while, but things went back down

hill pretty fast....so I'm figure its something bigger, like the EGR...

I forgot to add the type-Napa plugs and wires....

I forgot to add the type-Napa plugs and wires....

Try cleaning it out first with some brake cleaner. Get a new gasket too.

Well if that check engine soon light came on recently or not too long ago you will be able to get the code it left in the ecm. You just jump terminals a and b with a paper clip that u bend or any other object availible. Then turn key to run position where all the lights on the dash light up but don't start it. Then watch the check engine soon light it will flash a code 12 at both the begining and end and in between will be that actual code left buy whatever triggered the light. Also and each code will flash 3 times each.

LONG PULSE - (1.2 seconds) counts off the first digit (or tens position) in code

SHORT PULSE - (0.4 seconds) counts off the second digit (or ones position) in code

If you are able to pull the code you can post what you got and I could tell you the possibilities or if you live near an autozone they will normally jump it for you and check the codes and they will take you in and they can tell you the possibilities as well. Hope this helps...

Edited March 23, 200619 yr by reeferman

Hmmm...Going to give it a try..

I live by a few autozones...

It's hard to catch that light though....

Hmmm...Going to give it a try..

I live by a few autozones...

It's hard to catch that light though....

O well it stores it in the computer and it will stay in it for so many starts then it clears so if you happen to see it pop on or if it has been on somewhat recently it never hurts to run by and get it checked

About how long does an average EGR last, I wonder?

I'm told they can go a while, but if they get past 120k, that is considered pretty good...

And since I've updated other stuff...MAP, fuel pump, if that is speeding the ERG's

demise...

All right, EGR valve on a 3.1L engine is a "digital" or electronically controlled valve. Since there is no vacuum that actually opens and closes the valve as with other, older valves, you've essentially eliminated a vacuum leak as a possibility. Also, if the check engine light has come on, the EGR trouble code is normally a code 32. I would check to see if you have power at the EGR valve, then check to see if there is excessive carbon build up around the valve and clean it with a brake, or carb cleaner and strap it back down. Otherwise, expect to pay about 130.00 for a new EGR valve.

As far as symptoms of a valve acting up, normally you're only going to notice things at idle since the normal problem is a chunk of carbon gets lodged into the valve and allows exhaust gas to enter the combustion chamber at low rpms and dilutes your fuel/air mixture too much, causing hesitation, lack of "pick up" poor fuel economy (due to lack of peppyness of the engine and you getting into it more to get the same power), and just overall crappyness. As far as spark plugs for that engine, your best bet would be AC Delco R44LTSM plugs, gapped to .035.

All right, EGR valve on a 3.1L engine is a "digital" or electronically controlled valve.  Since there is no vacuum that actually opens and closes the valve as with other, older valves, you've essentially eliminated a vacuum leak as a possibility.  Also, if the check engine light has come on, the EGR trouble code is normally a code 32.  I would check to see if you have power at the EGR valve, then check to see if there is excessive carbon build up around the valve and clean it with a brake, or carb cleaner and strap it back down.  Otherwise, expect to pay about 130.00 for a new EGR valve.

As far as symptoms of a valve acting up, normally you're only going to notice things at idle since the normal problem is a chunk of carbon gets lodged into the valve and allows exhaust gas to enter the combustion chamber at low rpms and dilutes your fuel/air mixture too much, causing hesitation, lack of "pick up" poor fuel economy (due to lack of peppyness of the engine and you getting into it more to get the same power), and just overall crappyness.  As far as spark plugs for that engine, your best bet would be AC Delco R44LTSM plugs, gapped to .035.

The wagon gets worked on early next week...I'm pretty sure that the EGR hasn't been cleaned, so I'm going to make sure that that puppy gets cleaned out first.

I have a feeling if that doesn't work, it's going to be time for a new EGR...

Just a thought....how long has it been since you changed your spark plug wires? A car can miss under load when these are in sub-optimal shape.