problems.

1the fob doesn't always unlock my car first try (this one has had that issue before, replaced battery last month)

2also lost 1 set of keys (fob, ignition, door locks)

3doesn't turn over every time i put the key in and try it.

4, correlation to #3, also resets power to my radio. and runs the radiator fan (briefly)

my key is a "chipped" key.

questions

is i tmost liekly my ignition? (cost of ~$400 for new one)

or a controller problem?

is there a way to check the "controller"?

does the security part of this system shut down all system power other than to the IP when the chip isn't "read" or it's the wrong key? (hence the radio reseting)

thanks for the help.

problems.

1the fob doesn't always unlock my car first try (this one has had that issue before, replaced battery last month)

2also lost 1 set of keys (fob, ignition, door locks)

3doesn't turn over every time i put the key in and try it.

4, correlation to #3, also resets power to my radio. and runs the radiator fan (briefly)

my key is a "chipped" key.

questions

is i tmost liekly my ignition? (cost of ~$400 for new one)

or a controller problem?

is there a way to check the "controller"?

does the security part of this system shut down all system power other than to the IP when the chip isn't "read" or it's the wrong key? (hence the radio reseting)

thanks for the help.

The VATS or PassKey system basically works by ready the resistance on the pellet on your key. There are 15 or 16 different resistance pellets available. If your pellet get dirty or the contacts in the ignition get dirty, they will occasionally misread the resistance and the car won't turn over... the security or PassKey light will usually blink and you have to wait x seconds to restart.

So I would first clean the pellet and try to clean the contacts in the ignition switch.

The controller is a black box that is very hard to get to under the dash... it gets married to the key the first time it reads and remembers that resistance forever and cannot be changed. To my knowledge, it can't be easily tested. If you replace it, you probably should replace the key, as well.

IIRC, the wiring for VATS is inserted into the ignition switch before you install both, so switching the ignition switch won't actually switch VATS contacts. Pulling the VATS wiring out of the steering column is a major PITA, too... I know from firsthand experience.

If VATS fails, it shouldn't play with the radiator or radio... but what you are observing sounds like normal behavior... when the key breifly goes past run, it will likely momentarily energize the radiator fan and radio, but both are cut out when you get to start... then the VATS is simply killing everything. Going back to run really should restart the radio and/or radiator fan...

If the problem is VATS/PassKey you really should have a warning light blinking when it fails... perhaps you might need to retrieve it via OBD... I've never had a problem with VATs on a '99... only older.

As for your FOB, its likely dying. The transmitters seem to get duller as it ages, and you end up replacing batteries more often to compensate. Perhaps open it up and clean all the contacts.

how would you recomend cleaning the contacts in the ignition? spray cleaner in it and leave it for a little while, or...?

yes the replacing the "ignition" is a ~2+ hour job according to the quote i got from a dealer.

yes,have cleaned the "pellet". used rubbing alcohol.... unless that's a horrible idea.

about the radio, just to make sure i understand, that's normal to kill the "standby power" to it when the key doesn't work?

i don't understand why the rad fan would kick on. make sure it senses it's there and can pass a drain across it?

the blinking light, a security light in the IP?

how long should i wait between tries of starting the car?

thanks for the help. it's been doing this off and on for ~ a month almost. still hate that i don't know what happened to my other key/door/fob.

i betting this isn't normal. just curious if anyone knows how to clean this and if that would keep it from working. thanks

If VATS fails, it shouldn't play with the radiator or radio... but what you are observing sounds like normal behavior... when the key breifly goes past run, it will likely momentarily energize the radiator fan and radio, but both are cut out when you get to start... then the VATS is simply killing everything. Going back to run really should restart the radio and/or radiator fan...

I can check it pretty easily...the standby power lead to the radio, but if that is "normal"(resetting the whole radio, like it was plugged in the first time)... this seems like an anomaly.

oh. and cleaned the FOB up with rubbing alcohol. still works, but only tried to unlock and lock once. no trouble.

Edited September 1, 201114 yr by loki