76ChevyTrucker

Hey Camino, I understand where you're coming from. It was the same way with my Grandmother for a while before she passed in '90. I know you're not looking for any sympathy, but I really do know what kinda boat you're in right now.

:rotflmao: Hmm....prius

clock

You can honestly go to any fabric store and buy something that'd work at headliner, there's no "special" headliner material out there.

Firing order for Chevrolet V8s is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. When in proper timing, the rotor button (under the cap) should be pointing at the driver's side first piston. from there you'd attach the plug wires in that followng order.

Best recommendation I can think of is start simple. The car should have an idle air control valve, located just aft of the throttle body. Nine times out of ten, the EGR valve dumps back into the intake air stream just in front of this valve. From there any carbon that is in the EGR stream gets sucked through the idle air control valve (IAC). If that gets stuck then the engine could possibly not get enough air through the throttle body at lower RPMs to keep running. And more times than not, you can always yank the IAC off and clean it out with a good carb cleaner.

Carb float could be stuck, if its the stock carb you have no float adjustment except for cranking it and "gently" tapping the float bowl with a screwdriver. Another thing could be fuel pump related. Could be an internal problem with the fuel pump, since it is a mechanical model that isn't allowing it to do its job and boost fuel pressure properly when under a load.

Question number one: Is it a front-wheel drive car? If it is, it might be a CV axle, since the noise predominantly comes when you're in a corner.

Two things I'd be willing to venture a bet on. Either a REALLY REALLLY clogged fuel filter (unlikely since it doesn't happen any other time except when you're running below a half tank) or the fuel pump itself is starting to have problems pulling fuel out of the tank once it drops below that level. The problem isn't necessarily the pump, but the way its designed. See when you've got a full tank, the fuel in the tank acts as a coolant for the fuel pump, the cooler it runs, the better since it is an electric motor and very susceptible (sp?) to heat. Once you drop down below a certain level, the pump is exposed to air heats up, dropping its pumping efficiency. I'd be damn near willing to bet that the fuel pump is starting to go south on you.

string

hey vipes, you can always try the best method I know. Open hood, pull pin on hand grenade, insert hand grenade into engine bay, run like hell!

The ding king does work, but if you can get your hands on some dry ice, and run that around the ding, then let the car sit out in the sun, normally it'll pop the ding out. I had some hail damage to my car over the summer and actually the sun popped a lot of the larger dents and dings out with time and baking in the sun.

there was a code for the Original Nintendo that allowed you to shoot the dog.

All right, lemme go unlock the gun case and take care of this problem.

Good to hear about that Fly. Fight it, Fight it as hard as you financially can.

I'd have to say I'm a lot like my dad. We both enjoy the outdoors, fishing, hunting, etc. He's not too big into sports, I am, I played football and baseball. We both like cars, restoring them, working on them, we're both fairly handy. I mean, we rebuilt my truck almost from the frame up and I have to admit, its a good looking ride. I have to say that I also got his short temper. We're a lot alike and I can't really complain whatsoever.

all right, lets see, parts of the Disc brake system. Starting from the wheel: Brake rotor, brake pads, Brake Caliper (parts inside consist of Brake Caliper Piston(s), Brake Caliper Piston Seal(s), Bleeder Screw, Banjo Bolt, Two (2) Copper Gaskets to seal brake line to caliper) Then you have the Brake Hose going to the frame (rubber, flexible, with fittings at each end). Attaching the Caliper to the Vehicle are Brake Caliper Guide Pins, which normally run through a set of bushings to help support and guide the caliper. Now jumping back to the lines. After your rubber line, you have a bendable, yet hard steel line that runs up to the Master Cylinder (assuming you're doing a vehicle without ABS). Inside the master cylinder, you have of course the Master Cylinder itself, its Reservoir (sp?), then you have a piston inside the Master Cylinder and its sealing washers/o-rings. At the back of the Master Cylinder, you have flange that bolts to the Power Brake Booster (again, assuming you have power brakes). Then you have the Booster, it consists of two metal buckets (essentially) crimped together, with a diaphragm (probably rubber) inside it. Attached to the outside of the booster is a plastic fitting that allows vacuum to be drawn from the engine. Attached to the Booster diaphragm there is a pushrod that leads to the back of the Brake Pedal. From there you've got the Brake pedal arm, which comes down to a foot at the bottom where you have your Brake Pedal Pad. I think that's about everything I can possibly think of. If I missed something, y'all let me know.

I remember most of them, and I wish that I could find a good version of Oregon Trail to play today. I had a ton of fun playing that when I was a little kid namely because I would always hunt and like it was said before, shoot 3000 pounds of meat and only be able to carry 300, but it was still fun. The only thing I ever bought was more ammunition whenever I stopped in towns.

vintage

I say go with the lower mileage car because who knows what kind of REAL condition the newer one is in once it leaves that dealer lot, you know? Normally lower mileage means less problems, but of course, I know that's not always the way it is, but you know.

Thanks for brining that up AAS, I didn't even think about a short, or an arcing problem from a plug wire.

While I'm not too much of a fan of Mellencamp, I do think that the "Our Country, Our Truck" campaign is going to do well because like in the commercials from yesteryear, everyone knows that Chevy (and GMC) build the longest-lasting trucks on the market today, I still see more older Chevy and GMC trucks on the road than I do old Fords and Dodges. I really think that this is a good idea. now I just wish that I'd get an email from the 200,000 mile club with the directions to the state fair in Texas, or at least where they'll be partying in Nashville so I can go and join at least once along the trip.

Cessna O-2 (yes, it was called the bird dog, used during WWII, Korea, and Vietnam as an foward air control aircraft)

That's what I'm thinking, bring back the Blazer nameplate for tha two-door variant of the Tahoe. Then actually have the Tahoe for the four-door. And finally let GMC keep what they've got and be happy.

Hey Fly, I reiterate, I do own a .30-06, I also own a fair collection of ballistic-tipped .30-06 rounds. Would you like to get your adjusters tag number and vehicle description?